Imagine pulling up to Farley at 10:00 am on a crisp Saturday in October. You easily find parking and make your way to the crag for an epic day of climbing. No driving around to multiple locations, no crossing route 2, no squeezing in to the sketchy spot on the hill that maybe isn't really a spot, or having to go to another crag altogether.
You can help make this a reality! The WMCC is purchasing a 70 acre property on Old State Road. The property abuts FirstLight Power land, where we have secure access to climbing at Crag X, the LowLands, Shelter Overhangs, and Wall of Early Morning Light. The WMCC plans to build a 60+ car lot on the property, with a 15 minute approach to Crag X.
We need to raise $430,000 in order to pay back the Access Fund and build a parking lot, kiosks, and trails. Our goal is to raise $50,000 by the end of the year.
This purchase is made possible by a Climbing Conservation loan from the Access Fund,
a conservation buyer, a grant from the Community Foundation of North Central Massachusetts, and donations from our local climbing gyms, including Central Rock Gym. Nick Friedman, a local climber from the Berkshires, stepped in to purchase the property two years ago to take it off the market, giving the WMCC time to acquire special permits and apply for the Access Fund Climbing Conservation Loan. Thank you Nick, the Access Fund, and our other funders for your important role in securing long term access to climbing at Farley Ledges!
How will this parking lot improve our long term access to climbing at Farley Ledge? When people park illegally along route 2, or along neighborhood streets like Bridge street, it creates potentially dangerous situations and significant impacts to the local environment. Sufficient parking that doesn't require users to cross route 2 will help improve our relationship with the town of Erving and our neighbors. It will also increase everyone's safety by ensuring that first responders have a staging area without closing down route 2 and emergency ATV access to the cliff via a trail the new property.
Our Vision
A new trailhead on Old State road benefits the entire community. The space will serve climbers, hikers, and community members who wish to enjoy Farley Ledges. With ample parking for visitors, bathroom facilities and a shed to store trail tools, this will provide a true home base for the WMCC. The 70 acres will remain mostly untouched and protected by a conservation restriction. The forest will provide important habitat animals and help mitigate climate change. There is still more work left to do after the new parking lot is built. Over 50% of the climbing at Farley is still privately owned, and we must respect the wishes of these land owners to not publish route information for routes on their land. The long term goal of the WMCC is to conserve and protect the entirety of the ledges.
Stay up to date on this project, such as volunteer opportunities, major milestones, and parking lot construction, by following us on Instagram @wmcc_climb_gneiss .
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